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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.